To Ayers Rock(Uluru)

Keep going on the Stuart Hwy 

After 4 days off at Coober Pedy, I felt it's time to hit the road, and so be it.

 I took a break near one of the hundreds of abandoned cars,  I saw a Dingo on the other side of the road, not letting me watch him for a long.

Martin counted 29 cars from Port augusta to Alice Springs

One morning, after riding a few minutes, Andre passed me, we shared the ride together until Marla for the morning, we doubled each other several times during the after noon and Finally we shared the night together. Andre helped me to realize some things that I had put aside or not realized enough. he left me a overview of astronomy, the beauty of the starry sky as the constelation of the scorpion, that i admire has since each nightfall while having a thinking to Andre for thanking making me raise my eyes a little higher.

When I took my lunch in a rest area, I met Marco, a man traveling along the Stuart Hwy  by car collecting cans 5km around each rest area to pay the petrol. Good to clean some rest area, some is so dirty... mostly near towns.

I could see along 500 km, the environment changing, bushes providing shed, the trees becoming kings, and the colors are letting go.

The next day I perceived gorgeous parrots, trees stop of growing and a shiny green grass grew on either side of the road. I rode through this new road happily and peacefully.

Suddenly, my rear rack fell, having lost the top screws, it dragged on the ground tearing my bags and my mat. under a dark night, I was stuck 2 km before the next station (calling themselves Erldunda) without being able carry my luggage without spare screws and nothing for substitutes. I then decided to hitchhike, A truck stop then to help me. By depositing me, he asked me to help me find a good spot in the bush for put my tent, I refused.

Heard many Dingoes howling early in the morning, I'm all ears admiringly at when I hear suddenly these howl who seem a wild and stamped beauty.

Lasseter Hwy and Red centre way

Lasseter Highway is a fully sealed 244 kilometre highway in the Northern Territory of Australia. It connects Yulara, Kata Tjuta and Uluru east to the Stuart Highway. The highway is named after Lewis Hubert (Harold Bell) Lasseter, who claimed to have discovered a fabulously rich gold reef (Lasseter's Reef) west of Kata Tjuta.

First problem with water

Thinking that Kulgera station will have drinkable water, I didn't filled my water bottles in the water tank for to be lighter. The station personel told me that there is not drinkable water over here. I will see at the next station Erldunda who was not so far. Unfortunately I find myself in the same situation, thinking they must be pragmatic, I didn't want buy expensive water, I fill my water bottles from the tap of the toilets and deposited purification tablets.



I then rode under a blazing sun, having a great thirst, I discover that the water is really not drinkable. I force myself to drink because it is the only water that I got, but hot water increases the foul taste, so I decided to empty a bottle and show it in reverse at the cars that will pass...

A van stopped, and I recognized then that it was Michael, the man who had given me fruits and water before Cobber Pedy, joined me again in a rest area for gave me some tools and exchanges few words.
Then, he invites me to take a  tea, we sit on the side of the road and share a nice moment together. he also gaves me some food and of course filled my water bottles.
We see again in the evening, and invited me to camp with him, we share a good meal, he passed me his swag for the night and exchange nice discussions. very good time :)
This is the first time someone thanks me for having given trust.

The day after, my rear rack lose a screw again, the man of the service station of Erldunda gave me some screw so I stop and fix it. and then, people in a caravan stop :
- "Everything all right ?"
 - "Yes, i am good thank you !"
- "we've got more water for you, have a drink !"
- "Oh thank you, that's so nice" ... "Ouhaaa ! the water is so testy and so cool ! That's Great ! Thank you very much !" :D

Ayers Rock Resort...

The thorny dragon or thorny devil is an Australian lizard, also known as the mountain devil, the thorny lizard, or the moloch. This is the sole species of genus Moloch. The thorny devil grows up to 20 cm in length, and it can live up to 20 years

Arrived in Yulara, I filled my bags of food and I continue to go to the cultural centre of Ayers Rock, to discover about the history of this place so popular. I then spent the whole day, to read all the information that was generously given about this place, aboriginal culture of Anangu and some fascinating stories Aborigines.

I met again Tahiti, A young man I had met in Tasmania during the harvest of cherries, it suggest me to see the sunset with him and his friends.

I met Andre on the way and we will meet up after the sunset to share the whole evening. spend all the morning at the cultural centre, Martha the woman who worked there,  invited us to stay with her and her husband in the community of Mutitjulu.
The after noon we discover this magnificent geological phenomenon marked by history. we did think has a huge chocolate mousse hehe.

Then we follow Martha across the community by bike without stop until the house of her husband, welcome, we share some discussion and questions about the site. Andre, conscientious mood, shares at Martha my desire to discover the community by helping voluntary. Martha replica then it is possible and I can even find work. Two days ago I would have said yes to on, but I felt at the time that I needed to think. Advising us to walk to the top of a sand dune to watch the sunrise, we go into taking our breakfast and spend a good time.

http://www.lemonde.fr/voyage/article/2009/01/08/une-reputation-usurpee_1337964_3546.html

Psychic put to the test

During the journey, you have several tests: Physical, psychic and spiritual.
In this place, my mind was troubled...

The honey grevillea is a recognisable shrub found growing in the Central Australia and Western Australia outback regions. Its scientific name is Grevillea eriostachya, although more commonly known as Honey Grevillea or Desert Grevillea. It is collected as bush food by the local indigenous people, as enjoyed as a sweet treat by Aboriginal children.
The bright yellow-green flowers contain thick, honey-like nectar which can be sucked directly from the flowers. The flowers can also be dipped in water to make a sweet drink.

 I then felt compassion for this country who have been upset. The mass tourism in such places made me uncomfortable. So much destruction in the past, and still no respect or real interest by most of the people coming... for what ? This site is affected by tourism, for sure I felt the symptoms of the Rock.

The first White people came destroy their hunting grounds and their water source to look for gold.
Several years after, When most is destroy, The governement want deal with them and give back the land(lost its wealth of yesteryear). The Anangu was Happy to have them Land back, but will have to share the most sacred place with about 400 000 tourist by year... and most of then climb Uluru.

About the possibility of the volunteer in the Mutitjulu community, I didn't feel well.
" I feel that I'm not in my place as a lots of people over here."
I am interesting to learn the aboriginal Culture, but I didn't really understood why, by curiosity ? its is right in this case ? I don't know. I like stories and I am interesting to live with the environment. but, Do they want share with any people ? Do they want help of any people ? I don't think so. I don't want to impose my self.

Too much questions and interrogation, Need to step back.

Also, I questioning my trip, my doubts and certainties :

 Is it right to go anywhere the curiosity could take us? 
Then it is possible to build my self being in perpetual motion? 
I don't arrive to respect respect my conviction like this...

Is it right for me to go somewhere for fun and discovery and not to live in?
I discover the environment, I discover the story, I discover another culture, I discover people, but I do not know them. I feel like I missed something.
Traveling is good, but the way to travel is an important choice.

I want to explore so many places on this earth, but Andre helped me to realize that we can't go everywhere. So I was thinking that the important thing is to stay longer has a place to make the most.
but i was wrong again, finaly i think that make the most is to take time, but take the time means nothing in terms of time, it is the final to give the chance to make the right choice, one to soak up what we can to enrich us personnaly. Physics , Psychic and Spiritual.

Make the most is to be aware of staying in a right place but also to be aware of the moment to leave.
 
En FR : 
https://www.facebook.com/Laetitia.dlb/media_set?set=a.10200546573600835.1073741831.1053311272&type=3

Ayers Rock, discovering the aboriginal culture

http://www.aboriginalculture.com.au/introduction.shtml
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Indigenous_Australians
http://www.creativespirits.info/aboriginalculture/

Kings Canyon, Watarrka National Park

 

At 300 kilometres south west of Alice Springs, with the first 130 kilometres south along the sealed Stuart Highway and then 170 kilometres west , at the end of the unsealed Ernest Giles Road, lies Watarrka or Kings Canyon National Park, one of the most spectacular sites in the Central Australian outback. Kings Canyon offers sights unlike any other in the Northern Territory.

 

It was the explorer Ernest Giles and his party who found water here during their expedition in 1872; it saved their lives. The gravel road that runs between Watarrka and the Stuart Highway bears his name. 13 kilometres before the turn off is Henbury Meteorite Craters Conservation Reserve: here, 4,700 years ago, a meteor, travelling at around 40,000 kilometres per hour and weighing several tonnes disintegrated before impact and formed at least 12 craters here. The largest of these craters is about 180 metres across and 15 metres deep. Rock fragments have been found and turned out to be mainly metallic: one of these was the size of a football and weighed an incredible 46 kg!

 

 

Rim Walk, enjoy Kings Canyon

Kings Canyon was my refuge, I found this gigantic place, fascinating and above all magnificent. I marveled every moment, not surprising after having spend the last few weeks in a flat desert.
I spent two days exploring the labyrinths of domes from various angles and views and enjoyed myself to meditate in the Garden of Eden and near the Ghost Gums with extensive views.

 It is set in the George Gill Range and must have evolved over millions of years. Over those epochs cracks appeared in the sandstone and as this fractured, huge boulders fell into ravines, eventually weathering to beehive shaped domes, now called the Lost City. Eventually a valley with vertical sandstone cliffs, 100 metres high, was formed; the porous sandstone collects water and slowly filters it through to the bottom of the ravine, where many plants and animals flourish.

 There are many reptiles here, from the large desert perentie to small skinks and around the waterholes, with its yabbies (small shrimps) there are many birds.

The Luritja Aboriginal people, who have lived in the region for over 20,000 years, are the traditional custodians of the park and have a strong voice in its management; they also operate tours that show aspects of their culture. The name "Watarrka" in their language stands for a species of acacia.

The park includes a range of environments: there are permanent springs with ferns and cycads, living fossils; there are red sandhills covered by desert oaks and spinifex grass; but its most spectacular feature are those sandstone canyon walls, especially when they are lit by low sun at dawn and dusk. And there are great views from the canyon rim over the weathered rocks of "The Lost City" and the waterholes and lush vegetation of the "Garden of Eden", with its palms, ferns and ancient cycads.

White-plumed Honeyeater (Lichenostomus penicillatus) -The White-plumed Honeyeater feeds very actively from leaves and flowers in the crowns of trees and in shrubs between 5 m and 13 m from the ground. Its main foods are nectar, insects (and their products such as lerps and honeydew), manna and fruit, with some seeds. Very strongly associated with River Red Gums. They sometimes also feed in the air or forage upon the ground.

Reflection of water in Garden of Eden

This night, I was sleeping outdoors on the couch. Because there was many travelers in the vans, i felt in security, but when there is nobody, i was preferring to sleep in the tent. Somethings amazing when we sleep outdoors is to watch the starry sky and also, This night was special, was Full moon and during the night I woke up and saw a dingo watching me at 3m ! Awesome ! :D

Giles track, to Kathleen Springs

http://traveloutbackaustralia.com/the-giles-track-kings-canyon-australia.html/

Ernest Giles : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ernest_Giles

 

Ring-tailed Dragon Lizard

  Giles track was fantastic, there was a forest fire some time before, so I can see the beautiful leaves repel making really pretty trees.

unfortunately, I didn't take enough water, the second day, I miss water for cooking but especially for drink. Then I walked a little faster at the end to reach the water tank has Kathleen Springs.

 About 20 km south of Kings Canyon in Watarrka National Park in Australia's Northern Territory are in the Kathleen Gorge, the Kathleen Springs. There are sources that are for people living there to this day of great importance.

  The sources had a spiritual significance for the Aboriginal people of the Luritja because of their Dreamtime mythology, the rainbow snake lives in the water holes.
 
As in the canyon water is constantly available, pulled to the unceasing waterhole Animals that could be hunt by the Aborigines with spears. The sources were the reason for conflicts of whites and Aborigines because white settlers, they used to water cattle and thus encroached on the lifestyle of the aborigines. The Aborigines in turn stole and ate many of the white cattle cattleman. The police arrested the cattle thieves and put them firmly.

 Invigorates with Watarrka National Park, I am ready to go to Alice Springs. missing screws for my rear rack, I go there by hitchhike.

Alice Springs

 Alice Springs lies in the physical and spiritual heart of Australia’s Red Centre. It is surrounded on all sides by the jagged MacDonnell Ranges, which according to the traditional owners, the Arrernte people, was formed during the Dreamtime by giant caterpillars

 Surrounded by a red sand desert which stretches for hundreds of kilometres in all directions, Alice Springs is one of Australia’s most famous outback towns. It is the gateway to the iconic natural features of Uluṟu (Ayers Rock) and Kata Tjuṯa National Park.

When i arrived in Alice Springs the 28 April, I looking for job to fix my wheel and get enough money to feed me until Darwin. I didn't find any jobs during 2 weeks so then i decided to find a job by my self with the residents, I put ads in town, and on internet (Gumtree and "alice springs jobs Facebook page") for teach french, to do gardening, cleaning or baby sittings.. And then the residents contacted me to give me jobs. Was for me the perfect jobs because was really not hard and i learnt about the area. Met the locals for me is a pleasure. So the money helped me to feed me but not enough jobs to save money.

Lucky, by a contact, I got 2 days work in the Red dog cafe, that helped me to fix my bike. but unlucky my bike was stolen 2 weeks after. The 25 May.

I need so much more money now and keep looking for jobs, but nobody want give me a job because I dont have any experience, not enaugh good english or because I dont stay for a while in Alice Springs.

Finally, after 2 months searching I found job ! and start the 28 Jun for two weeks in A2Z, a cleaning job with dynamic and friendly people. After 2 weeks, they still need me, so I stay one week more and its help me to get a better gear for my trip.

Telegraph Station

 
The contact with the Aborigines for me is the way to establish link with this country. Our First encounter was awkward but I'm still indulgent.

Alot of aborigines live in Alice Springs, from here, to expel from the communautees, come for alcohol or for many other reasons that i don't know yet. Alot of people are asking many questions due to the difference in culture.

The Aborigines from cities seems neither belong to their ancestral culture or the new Australians. I ask a lot of questions about them. I think, this is a new people that is born of an awkward relationship between indigenous and White people.

Discover another culture without judgment is not easy, we always try to give an explanation of behavior who escapes us.
Behavior as seen often Alice Springs. For example yesterday I cross the street, I glimpses a woman pissing standing while relying against a car in the parking of a Supermarket. 
 

Of behavior that can be found all over the world as begging, some asking for money directly, others try to exchange a few words before you beg for better solicit and then there are alot of stories that comb time to dream of having money.

I read in the book of Bruce Chatwin that Aborigines saw all the goods as potentially bad, they thought they would interfere to their owners has less to be constantly moving. Barter unnecessary things: Expressing intentions, continue the exchange, renew the meeting ...

I do not know why this new people is almost a painting and unveil their culture for money. What is more important than their sacred culture?
Survival?

Alice Springs, A town in the wild

Olive Pink, Botanic Garden

Bike Stolen !

Back in Kings Canyon

Kata Tjuta

The Songlines is a beautiful meditation on the importance of travel to knowledge and culture. The focus of the book is on the culture of the native Australians, and the essential relationship of ecology to culture.

Bruce Chatwin Quotes :

 “Walking is a virtue, tourism is a deadly sin.”
― Bruce Chatwin, What Am I Doing Here?

  “Man's real home is not a house, but the Road, and that life itself is a journey to be walked on foot.”
― Bruce Chatwin, What Am I Doing Here? 

 “[...] I will go to France, to Yugoslavia, to China and continue my profession.'
'As sanitary engineer?'
'No, Monsieur. As adventurer. I will see all the peoples and all the countries in the world.”
― Bruce Chatwin, Anatomy of Restlessness: Selected Writings, 1969-1989 

  “To lose a passport was the least of one’s worries. To lose a notebook was a catastrophe”

  The songlines quotes :

"Exist is to be perceived, man is born in the desert in Africa. Returning to the desert, he rediscovered."

"Australia is the land of lost children."

Sunrise's Birthday

I 've got a bike for free from a very nice family but was too small (frame 14), I 've got another bike for 150 dollars, so I took the whiles and the seat from the other bike clean the bike and adjust the break. but finally, the bike shop told me still not good, there is not drill for the rear rack, so will not enough strong to support all the weight on the corrugation for a long time, they suggest a good bike from her shop for a good price.

 Super moon, Ride to Simpson Gap.